The campground's name was The Adriatic and it was perfect, if windy. There was shade, a fair number of people, but not too many, and a view out over the ocean. The ground was very rocky and the kind neighboring Polish couple (they're set up immediately behind us in this picture) lent us their tent peg hammer when they saw the trouble we were having setting up. Due to our recent trip to Wroclaw, we were even able to thank them in Polish!

A Dalmatian on the Dalmatian Coast.

We had showered and set up our tent just in time for sunset on the beach.

We then went and ate at the campground restaurant where we were entertained by the jovial Croatian owner. When my fish arrived -- whole! -- and I was picking at it, trying to discern the best plan of attack, he swooped in and saved me, neatly stripping out the spine and identifying to me the tasty bits to eat. I was a little chagrinned, but a lot thankful. He later reappeared towards the end of the evening and chatted with us until past closing, offering us schnapps and telling us about his country.

The next day we were up early again to tackle the day's ride. We decided to bike inland once again on the smaller roads and leave the coastal road to the trucks and buses. Inland, though, meant hills. It was to be a long tough day.

A view of the upcoming day as we bike up into the hills from Primosten.

We biked uphill for over an hour. But once up in the hills, the views were stunning.

The major resource of the area was rocks. The entire countryside seemed to be landscaped in the remains of short stone walls that divided the land up into little plots. Here is an orchard with some of the many rocks.

Buildings made completely of stone were not rare to see. This one was in a little village on a steep hill. While some people remain in the uplands farming the rocky soil, most have migrated to the coast and the cities for a better life.

Biking a downhill...

We rode a steep windy downhill into the city of Trogir for lunch. There we bought food at an open market and spent as much time as we could in the shade.

We wandered the seaside boulevard looking for ice cream and instead came across the 15th century Kamerlengo Fortress.

Wandering the back alleyways of Trogir.

As the afternoon wore on, we hopped back on our bikes to continue along the coast towards Split. We managed to avoid the major road for the most part and only had to fight with car traffic once we got near Split and found ourselves in a massive industrial area along the coast. We had some trouble finding the city center, but eventually found ourselves in front of the grand theater building and were able to locate the esplanade from there.

We wanted to see Split, but we also wanted to spend time out on one of the islands, so we checked the ferry schedules and found one that worked perfectly for us; we waited 45 minutes, drinking overpriced drinks on the docks, and then boarded a ferry at 7:15 PM. We were headed to Brac, the closest island to Split and Croatia's third largest.

Our ferry left us off in the town of Supetar on Brac's northern coast. It was getting late, so we biked about a mile to the nearby campground, and set up camp. The site was a set of broad tiered steps with only a couple other campers, but very clean. While the island would be overrun by tourists in a month, it wasn't yet at all crowded. Most of the showers had no hot water and there was no toilet paper, but the place was inexpensive -- and the only campsite near Supetar. My shower ended up being stuck on. No matter what I did, I couldn't turn the handle back to off. I went and got a wrench we had brought with us for the bikes, but it wouldn't fit. I asked Ben to give it a go; still no luck. When we couldn't find the campsite manager, we (somewhat guiltily) left the water running and walked into Supetar for dinner. We ate on the harbor at Palute, which was highly recommended by our Rough Guide. We had feline company during our dinner, though the cats seemed more interested in Ben's squid calamari than conversation.